Soft Tailoring & Deconstructed Elegance: Alan Chambers on the New Rules of Modern Menswear
By Jonathan Friese | Photography by Kimberly Jefcoat
Alan Chambers, Vice President of Operations for John Craig Clothier and its contemporary brand Current, is one of Florida’s most trusted voices in modern menswear. In this insightful conversation, he breaks down the rising trends of soft tailoring and deconstructed elegance, offering practical advice on how today’s discerning men can achieve a polished yet comfortable look — especially in Florida’s climate.
Jonathan: “Soft tailoring” and “deconstructed elegance” are terms we’re hearing more often in men’s fashion. For the modern professional, what do these concepts actually mean in practice, and how do they change the way a man should approach his wardrobe?
Alan: Soft tailoring refers to the construction of a garment. We’re seeing more sport coats made with little to no shoulder padding, along with half-lined or unlined interiors—all designed to increase comfort and ease of movement. This doesn’t automatically make a piece more casual; that comes down to fabric and finishing details. What soft tailoring really does is make tailored clothing more enjoyable to wear.
Deconstructed elegance, on the other hand, speaks to how an outfit is put together. Where men once followed strict rules around what “belonged” in a look, there’s now more freedom to incorporate unexpected pieces into a refined wardrobe. For example, instead of a traditional dress shirt and tie, you might pair a suit with an elevated silk or cashmere polo.
We’re also seeing a shift away from full suits as the default. Many men are opting for a sport coat paired with a five-pocket trouser—cut like a jean, but made in a refined fabric such as lightweight wool.
Even traditional outer layers are evolving. A sport coat might be swapped for a shacket (shirt jacket) or a swacket (sweater jacket). Both offer a more relaxed feel while still maintaining a polished, intentional look—elevated, but with a bit of personality.
Jonathan: Many successful professionals want to look polished without feeling overly formal. How does soft tailoring allow men to strike that balance between sophistication and comfort, especially in a climate like Florida’s?
Alan: Soft tailoring strikes a balance between comfort and polished sophistication. You can have a soft-tailored tuxedo that remains fully formal, but moves better and is more comfortable to wear over time. Today, fabric choice and fit make all the difference, allowing for ease and flexibility without sacrificing appearance.
During the more moderate months, soft tailoring also makes it possible to wear traditional fall and winter fabrics without the burden of heavy construction. Lighter linings—or none at all—help reduce weight, making these pieces far more comfortable while still delivering a refined look.
Jonathan: What are a few key pieces every well-dressed man should consider adding to his wardrobe this season if he wants to embrace the more relaxed, refined look we’re seeing in luxury menswear?
Alan: Every man should have a well-rounded foundation: a classic blazer, a great suit, and a range of shirting options to keep those staples versatile. Footwear matters just as much—invest in a refined loafer for more sophisticated occasions, and a quality suede or leather sneaker to dress down a suit or sport coat.
Whether off-the-rack or custom-made, the right pieces are out there—it’s simply a matter of finding what works best for you.
Jonathan: As the lines between business, social, and leisure wardrobes continue to blur, how can men transition a deconstructed blazer or soft suit from the office to an evening out without losing that elevated look?
Alan: It’s easy to transition from day to evening. If you’re wearing a suit and tie, take off the tie, add a playful pocket square, lose the lace up oxfords and throw on a loafer or sneaker.
For a dressy casual sport coat look, grab a dark-wash denim jean or a white five-pocket (white is my year-around go-to).
The rule is, look like you care no matter what you choose. If it needs to be ironed, iron it. If it needs to be hemmed or tailored, make that effort. Details matter.
Jonathan: From your perspective working with discerning clients, what are the most common mistakes men make when trying to update their style—and how can they modernize their look while still maintaining timeless elegance?
Alan: The most common mistake men make is trying to be someone they’re not. Great style starts with authenticity—but right behind that is fit. Nothing matters more than wearing the correct size and investing in proper tailoring. Pants that puddle at the ankle or sleeves that are too long (or too short) are immediately noticeable and can undermine an otherwise solid outfit.
While John Craig is a luxury store, we understand that not everyone can—or wants to—spend at that level. The truth is, you can look great at any budget. It just takes a bit of effort, attention to detail, and the right guidance.
Too often, men—or the people shopping for them—buy into trends that don’t suit their personality or body type. The key is to stay true to yourself and seek advice from someone who understands fit and style. And if the person you’re asking for help doesn’t look like they take pride in their own appearance, it’s worth finding someone else.
At the end of the day, style is always evolving. What feels timeless today may not feel the same tomorrow. The goal is to understand the difference between trends and pieces with lasting appeal—and to be willing to adapt as things change.
